Elise De Dily of Chateau Marquis de Terme, which is known for its red wines. (C) Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp
In May, I spent 10 days in France, including a weeklong river cruise through Bordeaux wine country. Our group of four longtime female friends arrived in Bordeaux a few days before the cruise started.
First off, the historic wine district and a stop at the Musee du Vin et du Negoce de Bordeaux. We explored displays as we ducked through underground caves where for hundreds of years, craftsmen stored wine in cool temperatures until shipped to far-flung ports. We learned what about each region of Bordeaux yielded sweet or dry wines; was best for whites, reds or roses; and influenced fruitiness, florals and other flavors and aromatics. We sampled wine, too.
Once we boarded CroisiEurope’s Cyrano de Bergerac in Bordeaux, the ship moved through the Gironde Estuary and along the Dordogne and Garonne rivers to Pauillac, Blaye, Cadillac, Bourg, Liborne and Saint-Emilion. Each afternoon, we visited gardens, vineyards, wineries and historic towns, including several World Heritage Sites.
Roses are planted at the end of the rows in vineyard. (C) Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp
Having never grown grapes (Vitis spp.), I knew nothing about the process. I learned so much.
The plants and their vines are cut back to about 12 inches tall in fall. They look like short stubs in spring, barely reaching the lowest portion of the wire trellising that will support the growing branches and grape clusters.
When we were there in early May, the vines had just begun to develop their leaves and flowers. A few had even sported small clusters of grapes, which are promptly removed to encourage larger fruits.
Pauline at Chateau Simon is a member of the Dufour family, which has owned the vineyard in Bordeaux since 1814. This winery is known for Sauternes. (C) Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp
Grapes are susceptible to insects and diseases, such as caterpillars and fungus. The growers plant roses at the end of each row as an early warning system. When bugs or disease show up on the roses, it’s time to treat for the problem.
Growers affix to the wires brown packets of pheromones or specialized attractants for when a certain butterfly shows up to lay eggs on the grape vines. The eggs hatch into caterpillars that eat the plants. Once detected, the packets are broken open to emit a scent that confuses the butterflies so they do not know where to lay their eggs.
The growers use only natural or organic growing methods. One that organic gardeners all over the world know is the fungicide Bordeaux mix, with copper sulfate as the main ingredient. After centuries of growing grapes and using this fungicide, copper has built up in the soil in France and other wine producing countries. The copper toxicity inhibits plant growth and causes other problems. Many of the growers we met were researching alternatives.
Locals harvest the grapes in late summer. Not all of the grapes ripen at the same time. They are harvested over several days, with growers regularly sampling the fruits to ensure the correct ripeness.
The grapes are crushed, usually in September, filtered, stirred, strained and stored in large metal or concrete tanks for various periods, then siphoned into oak barrels for aging and blending. The last step is bottling, labeling and shipping.
Fascinating information, Jo Ellen. What a fabulous trip. I’m going to add a bottle of Bordeaux to my grocery list, thanks to you.
Thanks, Kathleen. I hope you get a chance to take that cruise. It was really, really nice. Only about 150 people on the ship. Manageable size. Accommodations were wonderful. I’d never been on a cruise before.